Dubrovnik to Split & Back: Day-4 and 5 in Croatia

The next day, after a nice breakfast at the Hotel Komodor in Dubrovnik, we got into the Peugeot 308, and off we went to Split. I had Google Maps showing the way, and the route took us over the Dubrovnik bridge, and followed the beautiful Adriatic coastline.

Driving along the coast.

With hills on one side, and the turquoise sea on the other, this turned out to be one of the most spectacularly scenic ride that I have driven on. We soon came up to the border checkpost, at Neum. Vehicles slowed down here for passport check. We made it through without any hassles, and were now driving in Bosnia. After about 10 km, we stopped at another checkpost, where again, our passports were checked and stamped. Now we were back in Croatia!

The roads widened into a expressway soon, and we were doing good speeds. We reached the hotel in Split - The Radisson - just in time for  lunch. At lunch, there was an old waiter who kept apologizing for the delay. We finally got our food - great food with hearty portions, as usual - and called for the check. It was 180 Kuna, and we intended to leave 200 Kuna as "keep the change". What we actually did was leave 200 Euros as "keep the change"! The old waiter burst out laughing, and joked with us, "Whats this! I'm rich!" Of course, he gave us the Euro back, and we paid the right amount in Kunas.
After this, we headed out to the "Diocletian Palace" - the main tourist attraction in Split.

Diocletian Palace - Split.

The "palace" is actually a small city-fortress, right at Split harbour. It was built during the Roman times - around 4th century AD - as the retirement home for the Roman emperor Diocles. Diocles was from Dalmatia - the Adriatic cost of Croatia - and that's why he built his retirement home here.

Diocletian Palace is a square fortress, with four gates in the four cardinal directions - named the Golden, Silver, Bronze and Iron Gates. We entered by the East Gate (which was named Silver, I think). All along the entrance are several small shops, selling mainly summer clothes, lavender, and other souvenirs. We entered and joined the "Red Umbrella" walking tour of the place, and our guide (a lady whose name I forget now), told us about the history of the place.

Inside Diocletian's palace

Inside is a small square, with a cathedral and bell tower to the left (these were later additions to the Roman palace), a narrow lane leading to museums and the Temple of Jupiter on the right, and the crypts straight ahead.

The whole place has a very touristy feel to it, with bars, cafes and restaurants all around the narrow lanes. However, one can still get in touch with the history of the place. There is an Egyptian Sphinx at one end of the square. Our guide explained that this was one of the surviving Sphinxes of many that Diocles had got from Egypt.

The Sphinx - one of a few that remains relatively undamaged.

The cathedral is also Diocles' mausoleum. It was converted to a cathedral in the 5th century AD. The legend goes that this was the ultimate revenge, as Diocles severely persecuted Christians during his rule. Our guide claimed that it was Diocles' son-in-law who persecuted Christians, as Diocles himself was too sick to rule during this time.

The Bell Tower - added in the 13th century.

Directly above the crypts, is the area called the "Vestibule", which is a room with a large hemispherical dome. This was part of Diocles' royal apartment. The acoustics of the place was demonstrated by a group of choir singers.

Inside the Palace.

Several places had Roman-era tiles and motifs. Our tour guide also showed us one gate which was decorated with what looked like Indian swastikas, and Shiv's dumru.

Roman-era mosaic tiles.

Swastikas and Dumru design on a gateway

These designs did look very much like the Hindu Swastika. It may have been Indian influence in Greek art after Alexander's failed invasion of India. Our walking tour took us from the Silver Gate to the Golden Gate, or the northern entrance of the city. Here there is a later statue of Bishop Gregory.

Statue of Bishop Gregory - no connection to Diocles or his palace.

After the tour ended, we visited the museum, and then climbed up the Bell Tower for a splendid view of Split harbor.

View of the harbor from the Bell Tower.

We still had not seen the cathedral/mausoleum or Jupiter's temple, as both were closing down for the day. So we walked around looking for a place to eat. There were a whole lot of restaurants and cafes to choose from.

Cafes all over the place.

 While we were walking around, the waitress from one of these restaurants guessed what we were looking for. "We have WiFi", she said, and that was what clinched the deal! However, the food was pretty good there too.

Leg of Ham at the restaurant.

After the dinner, we headed back to the hotel, and spent a while on the beach. It was a moonlit night, and the moon reflecting in the water made it a perfect night. Pity that my iPhone camera was not great at capturing this moment.

Moonlit Adriatic.

Dubrovnik: Day-3 & 4 in Croatia

The next day mid-morning, after checking out of the Double Tree Hotel in Zagreb, we headed straight to the restaurant recommended by the Bosnian taxi driver. Gladne-Oci was a short walk from the hotel, and we settled down for an early lunch.

At Gladne-Oci, Fried Croatian bread - an appetizer we got hooked to.

The food here was really good, and in large (really large) portions. We realized a single main course dish could have fed us both. After the heavy lunch, we set off for the airport to catch our short flight to Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is Croatia's top tourist destination, on the Adriatic coastline. It has been made famous recently due to the Game of Thrones connection (episodes featuring King's Landing were shot there).
We landed in Dubrovnik in the early evening, and took a taxi to the hotel - Hotel Komodor. We realized our first mistake then - the taxi was quite expensive, around 40 Euros. The hotel itself was not very impressive. Rooms were small, not very comfortable, but still live-able for a few days. In anycase, we did not plan to spend much time in the hotel room!
 As soon as we were settled, I headed out to a nearby car rental shop, and got a Peugeot on rent. We needed the car, as we were planning to drive down to Split later. I am not a big fan of Peugeots, but this was no Hertz rental - this was the only car available, and the rental agreement was a small slip of paper with the owner scribbling the rates on it! We drove towards the old town, and I missed a turn, and almost headed half-way back to the airport before realizing this. However, this wrong turn got us to the cliffs above the old town for some great views.

View of the old town.

 We finally drove into the old town, parked in a lot, and a short walk later, were at the main "Pile Gate" entrance. There are a number of paid tours, including Kayak tours. Since it was evening, the tours were all closing down for the day. We entered the gates and started discovering places on our own.

Pile Cove - aka "Blackwater Bay"

We ended the evening by heading for the well-known "bar-on-the-cliffs" or Buza bar. A small doorway and a narrow flight of stairs leads to this place. We almost missed it, as you wouldn't realize a bar could be behind such a narrow doorway.

Buza bar - on the cliffs.